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28-05-2014, 08:39 PM | #32 | ||
Thailand Specials
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Haha during winter it gets into the low negatives here overnight, or you'll go out at around 10pm and the roof of the house and the cars are starting to ice over. In the morning the whole thing is iced over, just start it, heater on full, head lights on let it idle for 10-15 minutes and it'll melt the ice on the windscreen and lights, just go back in and watch more TV.
Its even worse on top of Mt Macedon let alone near it like I am lol. |
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28-05-2014, 10:16 PM | #33 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
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In summer I normally start it a few minutes before I go anywhere just to let it cool down and on a bitterly cold morning I do the same to get the heater going so the car is nice and warm when I get in. I don't worry about glazed bores or any of that, the car will be replaced long before that becomes a problem (if it even would).
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28-05-2014, 10:22 PM | #34 | ||
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I start my eb up wait for the belt to stop squealing and slipping then thrash the **** out of it 22 years still going strong.
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29-05-2014, 02:41 AM | #35 | ||
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Thanks everyone for your methods!!! It seems its still like the conversation with my neighbour 50/50 just about!! What Iv noticed with my BA XR8 is I have a custom made exhaust by previous owner ( still Road Worthy ) but its a pretty load exhaust system & I prime it till I hear the pump stop (2 seconds) then start it & it does not rev over 1000rpm but its load & shakes the house some times depends on what the areas doing for noise because I live in the country. And mine seems to take 2 minutes to be at about 750rpm and the noise drops in half then I'm gone and I don't have any problems with the feel of a cold engine> But seeing this car is a new car to me, I think I have owned the BOSS for 7 months I can not believe the motor!!! There FAST!!!!
So the next question is with a V8 engine does any one let them COOL down?? I know turbo motors you have to but I never have prior but after having a bit of Fun with this one Iv been giving it 10 seconds but if the fan comes straight on Maybe until the fan turns off!! ANY ONE COOL THERE MOTORS DOWN FOR LONGER THEN A MINUTE??? THANKS EVERYONE FOR POSTING THERE METHODS!!!!!!
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29-05-2014, 03:56 AM | #36 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
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you don't have to always cool turbo engines down and you certainly don't have to cool down V8's either.
also the best way to warm a modern car up is to drive it. I never warm a car engine up by idling, start it and away you go. As stated by someone already the warming up myth comes from old carby cars where they were often temperamental while cold but modern fuel injection etc overcomes this. Cars are not that fragile that they need this warm up/cool down nonsense |
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29-05-2014, 05:30 AM | #37 | ||
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But XXXooo What sort car do you drive??
I Have heard about the new car fuel injec etc & they say you can drive straight away but I still think that with the sound of my oil pump circulating it through the motor for 30 secunds & the drop in idle after two minutes thats my method. But I have a performance tune so I guess thats just me making sure it drives perfect from word go after listening to the car for a while because getting it fixed can be a huge price! I had a Au that was warmed up for 3 minutes that hit about 370,000 & still going strong but just a 6 on GAS not an 8 on petrol! My main question was if a car sits for over 10mins just idling is it ok or will it cause damage?
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29-05-2014, 07:03 AM | #38 | |||
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Quote:
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29-05-2014, 07:48 AM | #40 | |||
RIP...
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However, you're wasting your time and money by warming up the engine whilst idling. It's simply not necessary. This is not an opinion, rather a fact. Most (perhaps all) car manufacturers recommend driving a car immediately after start up as it warms the engine faster than idling. Modern EFI engines with efficient oil pumps and low viscosity oils are better off when driven immediately.
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29-05-2014, 07:48 AM | #41 | |||
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I idle long enough to get oil pressure, so about 10 seconds. Drive gently until water temp is raised.
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29-05-2014, 08:52 AM | #42 | ||||||
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Other things to note about warm up; just because the cooling system temperature gauge shows a warm engine, it does not mean that the entire engine is up to operating temperature. And what's the point of having a warm engine if everything else is cold - gearbox, differential, bearings, etc. There are more cons than pros to idling engines. http://www.nrcan.gc.ca/energy/effici...on/idling/4423 Quote:
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The true danger only occurs when you take a potentially dangerous piece of machinery and place it in the hands of the most unpredictable species on the planet. Human behaviour, as history has catalogued, cannot account for what any persons actions may be, especially concerning their love of the motor vehicle. http://www.fireservicecollege.ac.uk Last edited by johnydep; 29-05-2014 at 09:00 AM. |
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29-05-2014, 09:24 AM | #43 | ||
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Mmm I'm sure there's fact behind why you should/shouldn't but I guess like I said, our cars have always been warmed up before driving, and they've all lasted well over 250,000 and even an au ute went nearly 500,000 with no problems... old habits die hard but for us, warming cars up hasn't created any problems...
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29-05-2014, 10:23 AM | #44 | |||
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Put two identical engines that have been cared for in different ways on a dyno, and you'll see the difference. Take them for an interstate trip and compare the fuel and oil consumption. Why is it that one Falcon/Territory owner will rave about fuel/power and the other will cry? Both with similar driving habits. The wear we're discussing isn't the type that will show up overnight or in a year. It's the minute wear that is so gradual that the owner/driver does not notice, the type that becomes 'normal wear & tear'. People miss it because it is hidden, or not noticed - slight oil consumption, hidden by the fuel dilution of the oil. Fuel economy slightly different, must be the petrol. Power feels down a bit, time for a tune/oil change/different fuel. I see the difference every day. Everyone has their own view on this, if what you're doing works for you keep doing it.
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29-05-2014, 10:26 AM | #45 | ||
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I'll agree with you on the oil consumption... my laser has started to consume small amounts in between oil changes... but economy wise it's a freak... took us from Sydney to brisbane and then about another 100 kms on top for one tank of fuel... so got about 950 kms out of the tank... so consumption definitely isn't changed
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29-05-2014, 10:27 AM | #46 | ||
Former BTIKD
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The only instruction in my owners manual is "Only drive at high speeds once the engine has warmed up"
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29-05-2014, 10:31 AM | #47 | |||
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I warm the ED turbo warm up for a couple of minutes...Mainly to get a bit of blood flowing through the turbo.
FG...good to go. Warm up for as long as it takes to pick a song!
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29-05-2014, 11:20 AM | #48 | ||
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I'm sure this information is all well and good for modern engines with low engineering tolerances and thinner oils, but what about those with more exotic materials and higher viscosity/more loose specifications?
My engine runs low skirt profile pistons and a larger piston/bore clearance. Added to that straight 50w racing mineral oil with head pressure galleries opened up slightly to accommodate this fact. I'll let the fuel pump prime, then wind her until ignition while monitoring the rising rate of oil pressure via a mechanical gauge. Then I walk away for at least 2 minutes, or blip the throttle a few times if I'm ready to go again monitoring the oil, making sure its to its usual cold pressure and that it rises and falls with engine rev. I never drive off in it until I see a rise in coolant temp or a fall in the oil pressure. Concerning my Fiesta on the other hand, it gets 40sec of idle then its go time.
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29-05-2014, 12:52 PM | #49 | ||
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My neighbours would shoot me if I sat in the garage every morning for 5-10 mins at 4am idling my car. haha
I turn it on, wait for it to stop rattling around (getting oil pressure) then drive off. Driving reasonably easy for around 10 mins. |
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29-05-2014, 01:03 PM | #50 | ||
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I suspect you would find at 2 or 3 minutes tempreture would not be consistent right through the whole engine, but these modern engines with a fair bit of alloy in them would be much better off than something like a full cast iron clevo that could take upwards of 10 minutes to get uniform heat right through the block.
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29-05-2014, 03:09 PM | #51 | ||
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If in doubt look at the spec of the engine oil you use, You'll find its designed to work from Cold.
Glazing bores on idle, Ive seen the damage on Old Trucks (used as yard trucks) where they get smokey. but a good run used to rectify that. For a Modern car Id say not an issue
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29-05-2014, 03:17 PM | #52 | |||
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Quote:
with 5 am starts I used to get it out of the drive asap, and baby it down the road before it actually responded properly. This thing probably needed warm up time, I didn't keep it for long..
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29-05-2014, 03:57 PM | #54 | ||
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I would have to agree with Turbo Josh! Like he said old habits die hard and every car I have had I have warmed up for 3 minutes V8's 6's. And one car I had was a car just to get me to work & I never had time to warm it up so I just jumped in it started it and drove after 10 sec's and That CAR was in worst shape after I was finished with it, now I look back on them all!
<h3 style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px" align="left">Cylinder bore glazing results from prolonged light load running, particularly during the running-in process, and leads to the formation of a surface coating or skin derived from chemicals present in the oil and fuel. If glazed cylinder bores are examined, it is not unusual to see the honed crosshatch markings beneath a super-smooth, highly polished, varnish-like layer. Bore glazing occurs at low speed and light load operations, particularly resulting from blow-by in new engines. Exhaust gases passing piston rings in newly built or re-built bores can react with oil and wear products, forming a golden-coloured varnish glaze. With everyone saying be carefull that you get glazed bores! This came from a Car manufacture and Glazed bores sound like thats only something you have to worry about when your running in a motor or a new Bore for a rebuilt motor! Also every car I warm never blows smoke from burning oil so I think a 3 minute warm up really does no harm just personal choice!! Good on everyone for explaining there methods with there cars. How long would a diff take to warm up???? </h3>
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29-05-2014, 04:25 PM | #55 | ||
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I kept looking in to Glazed Bores and please correct ME ANYONE!!! But the main engines that were to get GLAZED BORES are diesel engines & they don't do damage!! after a good drive & a little bit of smoke & there good!!
And when you think about it Truck motors are always idling for long periods of time! Thats the main info any way!! but we are talking about Fords cars & utes.
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03 BA XR8 SEDAN SILH0UETTE IN COLOR! 98 RON, SCT FLASH TUNED, COLD AIR INTAKE WITH K&N HI FLOW POD FILTER , 4:11 DIFF, HERROD THROTTLE BODY. PEDDERS XTREME-XA COILOVERS !! 247 RWKW 03 BA XR8 UTE WHITE IN COLOR! |
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29-05-2014, 05:19 PM | #56 | ||
I totalled my XR6
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Less than 30 seconds idle time is required, any longer is just a waste of your time and money.
Stop fooling yourself.
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29-05-2014, 05:20 PM | #57 | ||
I totalled my XR6
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Less than 30 seconds idle time is required, any longer is just a waste of your time and money.
Stop fooling yourself.
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29-05-2014, 05:21 PM | #58 | |||
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Not many people are aware that "running in a motor" takes longer than just bedding in the piston rings. Yes the initial running in is very important, but the process continues for many kilometres. It's different for each engine type. I remember when I first got the Territory, it was mentioned on this forum that the motor will feel freer at 15,000 and 30,000 km. I didn't believe it but at about those kilometres I did feel a difference and the fuel economy improved. So maybe for a second hand car, idle warm up doesn't matter. However, for a new car - you're mad if you idle it longer than a few minutes each cold start.
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29-05-2014, 05:47 PM | #59 | ||
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I let mine warm up for 2-3 minutes then take it easy until properly warmed up. I know when I've gone too early when I go from park to reverse and it clunks in rather than goes in smoothly.
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29-05-2014, 06:17 PM | #60 | ||
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If mine goes into reverse first time smoothly at any time I assume there is something wrong! lol
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